DIY - Aeroflow SR20 Sump Install

A baffled/extended sump is always a good idea if you're intending to track your car, or to extend the parts list on your forum build thread for max efames (r.i.p forums).

It's always a good idea to make sure that you have all the required tools before installing a part as some imperial sized hardware nearly caught me out with this sump.

I also recommend checking that the mating surface is flat which you can easily do with a ruler or straight edge. 

Looks good

Required tools:

- 1/4" drive 10mm socket and ratchet

- 1/4" torque wrench (not necessary but recommended)

- xxmm 1/4" drive Allen key

- 3/8" Allen key

- 11/16" Socket (3/4" drive recommended) and ratchet

- Suitable sealant (I used permatex ultra grey)

- Hammer
- Big sheet of cardboard
- Oil drain pan
- Brake cleaner
- Jack + Stands or a hoist
- Around 5.5ℓ of oil and a new filter
- Microfiber cloths

Start by jacking up your car and safely setting it down on some jack stands (or use a hoist). Pop a big piece of cardboard below the sump and drain as much oil as you can into the drain pan (I normally remove the jack stand from the drivers side and let it down to help) then pop the sump plug back in so it doesn't keep dripping while trying to remove the sump.

SR taking a wee

This FSM excerpt below has the torque specs and loosening procedure which I recommend following just to be safe.

Once all the bolts are out, set them aside somewhere safe (spare bolt stashes always come in handy) and then bring out your trusty hammer.

Hannya and flower power

Give the sump a left right goodnight (you'll need to hit both the left and right side of the sump). I read somewhere that since you're removing the sump, you don't need to worry about draining all the oil out but that's only great if the sump doesn't fly off like mine lol.

This is where you can thank me for recommending cardboard

You should then be presented with this. It helps to remove the baffle so you can wipe away the remaining oil instead of waiting hours for it to stop dripping.

Sit back and compare the two sumps. The stock setup still looks pretty well designed in regards to oil starvation IMO but either way the extra oil capacity will help in regards to cooling.

Clean off all the gasket goo and pop the baffle back on if you've removed it. With the old gasket goo, I scraped most of it off with my fingernails and used brake cleaner on a cloth to clean off the tiny remaining bits and to also prep the surface.

Also now would be a good time to insert the studs (torque wrench comes in handy for peace of mind). Some will bottom out in the block and the others will just thread through all the way.

Give the new sump mating surface a quick wipe down with some brake cleaner and then apply some gasket. Refer to the excerpt below if you're unsure how thick to have the beads.

You should hopefully have something that looks a little better than this as my gasket applying skills sorta suck. Also remove the four inspection port plugs on the bottom of the sump (3/8" allen key).

I went back over the thin bit before installing

Pop the sump back on and lightly tighten it until the sealant starts to ooze out then let it sit for an hour before torquing it up (the wait time may depend on what brand of sealant you go).

Instructions, follow.

Once all the bolts are in and torqued, pop back in the inspection port plugs and also double check the sensor port and sump plug as well.

Yep so you're pretty much done. Just wait 24h before refilling with oil (or whatever your sealants instructions advise) and pray for no leaks otherwise you're going to have to repeat the process again.