Josh’s s15 pt1: cam + injector install
Teamwork makes the dream work right? I exchanged the JZX with Josh’s s15 so he could paint the cage at his and I’ll do some work on his car at mine before his tune. 
First order of business was to install HKS drop in cams. I think I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve done cams in sr’s.
Luckily it’s super simple as long as you have the appropriate tools and patience. Quickly rotate that crank pulley to 0 degrees TDC and ensure cylinder 1 is on the top of the compression stroke.
Forgot to take a photo but once you’ve compressed, relatched and refitted the timing chain tensioner, rotate the crank anti clockwise a smidge and you’ll hear it release.
Unfortunately vct motors you need to remove the top half of the plenum which might cost you an hour to remove and refit.
Then scale in the injectors and try start the car.
First order of business was to install HKS drop in cams. I think I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve done cams in sr’s.
Luckily it’s super simple as long as you have the appropriate tools and patience. Quickly rotate that crank pulley to 0 degrees TDC and ensure cylinder 1 is on the top of the compression stroke.
Funnily, the first time I ever did cams on my own car 6 years ago I didn’t that cylinder 1 needed to be at the top of the compression cycle before installing cams (I only rotated the pulley to 0deg) and wondered why my car wouldn’t idle. Luckily no damage was done. 50-50 chance right?
Wipe the oil off and mark the chain and gear to make your life easier. Remove the chain tensioner and mark the CAS alignment then remove it also.
Good time to pop on that new album you’ve been meaning to listen to. This isn’t DIY but if you’re looking at attempting this yourself please check the FSM as it lists all the torque values and sequences for loosening/tightening to ensure you don’t snap your pretty new cams.
I’ve done a lot of online shipping thanks to covid so I’ve got a lifetime supply of cardboard in my house now.
HKS provide some reading material for when you want to take a break.
Wipe the oil off and mark the chain and gear to make your life easier. Remove the chain tensioner and mark the CAS alignment then remove it also.
Good time to pop on that new album you’ve been meaning to listen to. This isn’t DIY but if you’re looking at attempting this yourself please check the FSM as it lists all the torque values and sequences for loosening/tightening to ensure you don’t snap your pretty new cams.
I’ve done a lot of online shipping thanks to covid so I’ve got a lifetime supply of cardboard in my house now.
HKS provide some reading material for when you want to take a break.
Quick note that drop in cams are meant to work with stock springs but these motors are getting a bit old so a spring upgrade wouldn’t go astray if the motor is a bit tired. I’d recommend super tech springs with stock retainers as an upgrade for vct motors as they aren’t as stiff as performance springs. You can reuse the stock retainers also - don’t need ti ones as they wear out and require replacement.
Quick photo before it’s hidden by the rocker cover.
I used engine assembly lube but also oiled the surfaces to be safe too.
Be sure to very gradually tighten down the cam caps in sequence and use a torque wrench for the final setting. 1/4” deflecting beam torque wrench is so cute.
Optional but mark with paint and take a photo after torquing in case you suddenly wonder later on while trying to sleep if you torqued all the bolts.
Check that the cam gears are in the correct alignment too. There’s a reference in the FSM.
I used engine assembly lube but also oiled the surfaces to be safe too.
Be sure to very gradually tighten down the cam caps in sequence and use a torque wrench for the final setting. 1/4” deflecting beam torque wrench is so cute.
Optional but mark with paint and take a photo after torquing in case you suddenly wonder later on while trying to sleep if you torqued all the bolts.
Check that the cam gears are in the correct alignment too. There’s a reference in the FSM.
Forgot to take a photo but once you’ve compressed, relatched and refitted the timing chain tensioner, rotate the crank anti clockwise a smidge and you’ll hear it release.
Turn the crank by hand to ensure its rotating properly then get it back to TDC with Cyl 1 on top. Make sure the chain is sitting properly on the tensioner guide also.
Popping the CAS in might take you a few goes but line it up with the second dot.
Then it should line up with the first dot once in and realigned.
Refit the rocker. Mirror is handy to check if the gasket is seated or if there’s any leaks.
Then start the car. You’ll want to check the timing also with a gun. I couldn’t find clear steps for locking the timing on stock ecu’s but most aftermarket ecu’s you can lock it to 15 degrees and adjust the CAS till it matches. Don’t forget to unlock the timing after!
Then it should line up with the first dot once in and realigned.
Refit the rocker. Mirror is handy to check if the gasket is seated or if there’s any leaks.
Then start the car. You’ll want to check the timing also with a gun. I couldn’t find clear steps for locking the timing on stock ecu’s but most aftermarket ecu’s you can lock it to 15 degrees and adjust the CAS till it matches. Don’t forget to unlock the timing after!
Next up was fitting injectors. He decided to go with Tomei 740cc drop ins.
Unfortunately vct motors you need to remove the top half of the plenum which might cost you an hour to remove and refit.
I use an impact screwdriver to loosen the screws as you’ll struggle with a regular screwdriver possibly stripping the heads.
Put a screw back in partially so you can use it to lever out the injector with a screwdriver. No need for pliers.
And it’s out. Good idea to give it a quick clean too.
Don’t forget to lube the o rings. Use a liberal amount to ensure you don’t pinch them.
Put a screw back in partially so you can use it to lever out the injector with a screwdriver. No need for pliers.
And it’s out. Good idea to give it a quick clean too.
Don’t forget to lube the o rings. Use a liberal amount to ensure you don’t pinch them.
Wipe some oil liberally onto the seating surfaces and again on the injector o rings then pop it in.
Once you’ve got all the injectors installed, prime the rail by attaching the battery ground to the plenum and turning the key to ensure no leaks.
Once you’ve got all the injectors installed, prime the rail by attaching the battery ground to the plenum and turning the key to ensure no leaks. If all good then go ahead and reassemble it all.
Then scale in the injectors and try start the car.
Anyways more to come.
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